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How to successfully machine smock: the complete guide to perfect gathers

How to achieve smocking on sewing machine? All our tips for perfect gathers

Hello Couponettes ✨

Smocking is an essential sewing technique. They allow create pretty elasticated gathers, perfect for making dresses, blouses, skirts or even comfortable, feminine tops.

However, when you're just starting out, they can quickly become a source of frustration. Gathers that don't form, an elastic thread visible on the reverse side or even a fabric that doesn't tighten enough... so many small problems that often have a single origin: adjusting and threading the machine.

Good news: with a few tips and once you understand how they work, smocking becomes much simpler to make.

In this article, discover all the steps for successful machine smocking, as well as the adjustments and tips that will save you precious time.

To your machines the Couponettes! 🪡

The necessary equipment

To make smocks, you will need:

✨ Little advice from the Couponettes: always use a scrap of the same fabric as your project. Settings may vary depending on the thickness and nature of the fabric.

How to fill a bobbin with elastic thread?

You will often read that you have to fill your can by hand.

In practice, it is entirely possible to do this directly with your machine.

Place your can as usual, simply hold the spool of elastic thread in your hand to maintain slight tension, then fill the bobbin gently using the foot pedal.

The thread must be regular, without being too tight.

For a smocked dress, plan several cans in advance. Elastic thread empties much more quickly than conventional thread.

How to install elastic thread correctly?

The threading of the upper thread does not change. 

The elastic thread is placed in the bobbin.

The only vigilance concerns the passage of the thread under the small metal bar of the bobbin compartment. Since the elastic thread is slightly thicker, it can sometimes have difficulty slipping on properly.

To check that everything is installed correctly, turn the dial on your machine by hand. The upper thread should catch the bobbin thread and pull it up. This should come out over the can. 

If this is not the case, remove the bobbin case and loosen the small screw slightly to make it easier to pass the thread through.

✨ Little advice from the Couponettes: There is no need to significantly loosen the screw. A very slight adjustment is usually sufficient.

What settings should I use for successful smocking?

Unfortunately, there is no universal setting.

Each machine has its own balance between thread tension and stitch length.

The most important thing is tension! Ideally, a voltage between 7.5 and 9.

For stitch length, stay on the basic setting. 

These values ​​are a good starting point, but don't hesitate to experiment several times to find the right settings for your machine.

How do you know if your settings are correct?

Before starting your project, always make a few test lines on a scrap of fabric, the same as for your project. 

You will quickly be able to identify the origin of the problem.

  • If the gathers are little marked or even non-existent, the elastic thread is probably too loose.
  • If the elastic thread is deformed, decrease the stitch length and increase the tension.
  • If the elastic thread is visible on the reverse side of the fabric, the tension is too high.
  • When the gathers are even and the fabric tightens naturally, you have found the right setting.

Here are some illustrated examples: 

✨ Little advice from the Couponettes: take a few minutes to perform these tests. You will save a lot of time… and avoid a lot of seam rippers!

How to sew straight smocking lines?

When you're starting out, there's no need to draw all your lines.

Start by sewing a first line, then raise your presser foot, leaving the needle depressed, turn your work, lower your foot, make 3-4 stitches, raise your foot again, turn and align the first line to the edge of your presser foot.

To maintain even spacing, use the edge of your presser foot as a guide.

If you want more spaced lines, you can also use an edge guide. This accessory is ideal for obtaining a perfectly regular result.

✨ Little advice from the Couponettes: From the second line of smocking, remember to pull your fabric slightly up and down to keep it flat while sewing. This will prevent small surpluses from forming and will guarantee a much more regular result.

Should a breakpoint be made?

Two possibilities are available to you.

You can start and end each line with a breakpoint.

You can also choose not to, as long as you sew from one edge of the fabric to the other. The elastic thread will then be held in place when assembling your work or overlock. 

The last tip for tight smocks

Once all your smock lines have been made, do not put away your iron to iron! Simply steam your smocks, without crushing the fabric. Under the effect of the heat, the elastic thread will retract and your gathers will naturally tighten.

✨ Little advice from the Couponettes: use steam only and avoid pressing hard with the iron. The goal is to let the heat act on the elastic thread, without flattening the gathers.

Your smocks are ready!

And here are the Couponettes!

You now know all the steps to successfully machine smocking.

Even if the first tests sometimes require some adjustments, you will see that once the right settings are found, this technique becomes quick to perform and opens the door to a multitude of sewing projects.

So, all you have to do is take out your prettiest piece of fabric... and get started! You can also help yourself with our smocked dress tutorial without pattern 

Happy sewing! 🩷

FAQ: Successful machine smocking

Can we fill the bobbin by machine?

Yes. Simply maintain slight tension on the elastic thread while filling to obtain an even winding.

Why don't my smocks wrinkle?

The problem usually comes from the machine settings. Check the thread tension, stitch length and the passage of the elastic thread under the metal bar of the bobbin.

What yarn to use to make smocks?

The upper thread is a classic polyester thread. Only the bobbin is filled with special smocking elastic thread.

Which fabric to choose for making smocks?

The fabrics in cotton, the poplin, the light linen, the double gauze or even the English embroidery are ideal for this technique.

Should you do some testing before starting?

Yes. A few lines on a scrap of fabric allow you to adjust the settings of your machine before sewing your final project.

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